Uncommon Grounds by Mark
Pendergrast, 1999, Excerpts
With 28-pound annual per-capita consumption, the Finns drink
more coffee than anyone in the world. The United States, which bought half the
world’s coffee just after WWII, now consumes about 20 percent, with a united
Germany close behind. Japan now accounts for 11 percent of worldwide coffee
sales, and the Japanese appreciate high quality, buying some of the world’s
best beans.
World consumption – people spend approximately $80 billion
annually for coffee in all forms – is growing only at a modest rate as we enter
a new century. The steady decline in the United States has been arrested by the
specialty revolution, but per capita intake remains static at around 10 pounds
per year. Specialty coffee now accounts for approximately 20 percent of US home
coffee consumption. Even the big roasters have improved the quality of their
blends, with Arabica content growing. For years, northern Europeans set the
standard for coffee quality while the mass market barbarians in the United
Stares drank coffee swill.
By 2000, world coffee production and consumption should
exceed one hundred million bags a year. With more sophisticate machinery,
mechanize harvesting will become somewhat more common, but hand picking will
still predominate. Even with new science and technology, however, the coffee
industry will remain essentially unchanged. The boom-bust cycle will continue
to send prices reeling up and down, exacerbated by frosts, droughts,
speculative hedge funds, and the major roasters’ just-in-time inventory
practices, which leave them more vulnerable to shortages. The worldwide trend
toward higher-quality coffee, for which consumers are willing to pay premium
prices, gives some grounds for hope that small farmers and laborers may someday
break out of poverty, though that day is certainly far in the future.
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